We start down after a week above the Kumbu Ice falls. Our plans are to go from camp 2 skip 1 and on to base camp. It is a beautiful day not too cold sunny I am feeling a little better and start down with my Sherpa Tenzdu. I get half way through the Ice and slow Dan catches me and we make it to the bottom after a few hours. My breathing was giving me problems we walk by the clinic on the way to camp I stop for a checkup.
When we arrived in Base camp Dan brought the team to the Everest ER for a tour and to meet the doctors. Over 60% of there patients are Sherpa and porters that they treat for free. We made a donation of $100 each and that would cover unlimited visits while in camp. I thought that would be the last time I would be in the tent. The doctors are from all over and are experts in high altitude ailments. I meet with a Russian American Doctor Tatiana and local doctor Yogi they check o2 levels and they are good then listened to lungs and see her look at Yogi then I have 2 cold stethoscopes on my bare skin. I agreed to let Discovery Channel film a episode of Everest ER 16 and I am standing infront of the camera hoping they don't ask me to take my pants off too. The diagnoses is HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) treatment is a drug, and to descend immediately to lower altitude. She orders a helicopter for the next morning to bring me to Pheriche which is at 13,000ft it has a fully staffed clinic and the plan is to stay there until my lungs clear and I can return to base camp or they tell me my climb is over. I talk George into flying with me and we are stuck there for 4 days. Dr. Tatiana runs to Pheriche my last day a 15 mile run she is training for the Everest marathon she looks at the ultrasound and ask me to stop by when I return to base camp to let here look at my lungs again before summit attempt. I am cleared to go back up.
We walk up to Lobuche 5 hr from base camp and is where I am now. It felt great coming up we carried 40 lbs and ran up the mountain already acclimatized. It is may 6 we celebrate cinco de mayo a day late and I have my first beer in months. I take half day walks up the local hills my breathing, sleep and eating has gotten me back to normal. There is bad weather high up and we are on hold until they finish fixing lines and carrying o2 and supplies. We choose to wait it out here instead of a tent at base camp we have good internet and food and hope to meet everyone in a few days.
These events happened over the last week many dark moments, I have pulled the plug two times on the climb and after a conversation with doctors and leader decide to continue. My body has held up well I am not the fastest but my climb is consistent and for me to turn around now will always haunt me that I didn't try. My confidence level swings from 80% seeing myself on the summit to 20% asking myself why am I putting myself and family through this.
I know I am putting my family through hell and I feel terrible I think about them constantly on these long down days. Today is Mother's Day which is making my day even harder. I am in a tea house dining area with a lot of people around a pot belly stove that burns yak poop hopping the distraction is enough to keep the tears away. I think it will be easier when I start up and can see the end and my day is consumed by the climb.
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| Helicopter ride to Pheriche |
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| Ice falls again |
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| Cinco de Mayo, only one can is mine |
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| Clinic in Pheriche |
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| Training climbs local hills |
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| Dining areas of Eco Lidge in Lobuche, poop stove and George |
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