Going up.
We finally get started after a few days in base camp. Sherpa are working mostly at night carrying loads to camp 1 and 2. Ropes are fixed through ice falls and all the way to camp 3. We cross the Ice falls at 2am get to camp 1 at noon, 10 hours later. We made it through without event, walking over, under, around large blocks of ice, aluminum ladders span crevasse that you don't look for the bottom just at the next rung you place your crampon. If the gap is not spanned by ladders you jump, one foot close to one side of the bottomless crevasse and hopefully your other lands on the other side. Short burst of energy for jumping leaves me winded and takes a few breaths to get breathing back to normal same as a slip and energy to catch yourself. There are lots of broken ice blocks in the trail that have fell the previous evening that's why we leave at 2 the ice is more dangerous in afternoon heating or the refreezing after sunset so we are out by then. It makes noise lots of cracking, creaking reminds me of working in the coal mines after a while you get use to it but always reminds you of the danger. I have taken to the climbing part well it also is like a old job, lineman, a lot of the same principle apply, trust your equipment, relax and don't fight the harness, lock your legs out and rest when you can always pay attention to your safety attachments. If this was at sea level it would be a blast.
I am in the middle of the pack of the first group arriving at camp 1 our tents our on snow we have a mini Igloo with without a roof and a hole in the ice for a bathroom can't wait to break that in. Meals are served and we rest for a day and a half. My new tent mate Cat is great we talk like a couple of school girls about everything. Next day the rest of the team joins us. George is over his illness thanks to Everest ER Dr. Tatiana and Yogi. Steve saw a large collapse and not sure he will be making it back thru the ice. Everyone has a cough through the night and as we leave the next morning Rodgers cough is much deeper and since he has experience with it leading to broken ribs he calls for a rescue and flys to Kathmandu, Steve Joins him reaching his goal of crossing the ice falls but doesn't want to chance it again. I am sad to see them leave Rodger was a lot of help during the trek and Steve was from Indy and Defuniack springs sure we would have a lot to talk about.
The wind blows rattling the tent makes you fill like your on the inside of a drum. We move to camp 2 through the western cwm the weather lifts it is sunny we drop layers you can see camp 2 it looks so close but looks are deceiving we have a series of repels down and Jamar up the other side then we have a long walk and our camp is at the very top of camp 2 which took me an extra 2 hours to find, I strangle into camp last. Camp 2 is on Ice and rocks lots of debris from abandoned supplies last year. Our plans form camp 2 (22,000) is to rest for a few days walk to Lotse face one day and the next day climb to camp 3 (23,500)spend the night then in two days go all the way to base camp we will have a week off while they fix ropes to the top and carry oxygen. Then return for the final summit push. Magnus joined the team last minute his travel arrangement that have him going a day early he hopes to that to 7,000 meters turn around and heading to Kathmandu. I hear him leave at 3am it is blowing and very cold. He returns at 10am with a mild case of frost bite and will spend a extra night at camp. I hear him leave the next morning to head down and the weather is calm and much warmer I hear him say why couldn't it been like this yesterday. We get lots of forecast but you never know what the next day will bring.
My health gets worse get little sleep due to cough. I loose my tent mate and appetite put in isolation start taking antibiotics, George went thru the same drill and made it back. Luckily It is time to desend and get to a better altitude to heal.
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| Tomato soup and prawn chips in tent |
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| Out my tent; camp 2 pumori and cho oyu out my window |
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| Camp 1 looking over western cwm |
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| Me standing at the base of the Lhotse face; camp 3 yellow band over my head |
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| Camp 2 |
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